Installation Instructions Handcrafted Stone is easy to install, even for the most inexperienced do-it-yourselfer. Handcrafted Stone is easy and efficient to install to any structurally sound surface. Two people can install up to 200 square feet of Handcrafted Stone per day.

Estimating Material Requirements To determine the amount of stone of stone needed for a project, calculate total square footage of the project area. This can be done by multiplying length x height. Round to the nearest ½ foot. Subtract square footage for window and door openings or firebox opening for fireplaces. Measure the linear footage of outside corners to then determine the amount of corner pieces required. One linear foot of corners covers approximately ½ (.50) of a square foot. Subtract square footage of area covered by corner stones to determine remaining square footage for flat stone. We recommend you purchase a few extra stones for cutting and trimming. If metal lath is needed, use your Total Sq. Ft. of Area figure divided by 16. This will give you the number of pieces of metal lath needed. Don't forget lath for under the hearthstones, too. Fax rough sketch showing dimensions to Sakala Stone Products at (724) 339-2224 for free estimate.

STEP ONE:  Prepare The Surface Apply stone directly to clean unsealed, unpainted or untreated brick, concrete block, or other masonry surface. Install a meta lath to all other surfaces.  On painted block, pre-drill holes in block joints to depth of 1" (hammerdrill and good masonry bit recommended) every 12". Nail up metal lath using 1 ¼" masonry nails with washers.  On metal surfaces, attach the lath with self-tapping screws every 16".  On exterior wood framing surfaces, use 30# building felt paper or unperforated house wrap over any exposed wood to form a vapor barrier. Attach the lath by using 1 ¼" roofing nails every 6", securing to studs whenever possible.  On interior framing over drywall, secure lath through the drywall to studs using drywall screws of appropriate length. Where lath is loose, drive in drywall screws downward through lath into drywall at a 45º angle.  On interior framing over plywood/OSB, secure metal lath with 1 ¼" roofing nails every 6". Always attach lath right side up with small cups pointing upward. Building paper should be applied on exterior surfaces prior to the lath.

STEP TWO:  Apply Mortar To Wall Use type "N" or "S" mortar. Mix 2 parts of fine masonry sand to 1 part mortar. Mix mortar with just enough water for workable consistency. Apply a coat of thin mortar, ½"-¾" thick. DO NOT USE PRE-PACKAGED MORTAR MIX!

STEP THREE:  Apply The Stone Lay out stones at random. Install corner stones first. Remaining stones should be applied by working from the bottom up or top down. Joints between the stones should be as tight and uniform as possible. Apply ½" mortar to back of stone. Press stone firmly into place with a gentle wiggling motion to promote bonding. The mortar on the back of the stone should squeeze out and surround the stone.

STEP FOUR:  Remove/Dress Excess Mortar Once mortar joints are firm, use a wooden or metal striking tool and remove excess mortar. At the same time, firmly press mortar into the joints so edges are thoroughly sealed.

STEP FIVE:  Clean Stone Clean off any remaining mortar from the stone with a wire brush. Brush off any loose mortar on the face of stones. Never let mortar set overnight before brushing joints.

STEP SIX:  Brush Joints/Completion Use a whisk broom to brush mortar joints until smooth and loose mortar has been brushed away. You may wish to apply a masonry sealer to the surface of the stone, as sealed surfaces provide ease of cleaning.

HINTS Parge coat can be dry before installing stone. Sometimes this is better. On hot, dry days, moisten block walls with a misting of water to increase absorption. Lath is put up lengthwise, rubbing up against lath it should feel rough, down is smooth. Shiny is wrong; dull is correct. Lath is reversible. Consistency of mortar should be pudding-like. If stone slides mortar is too wet. If stone falls back into your hand, mortar is too dry. A grout bag helps with grouting. When grouting, wait until mortar is somewhat set up before striking. Use a whisk broom to brush joints when set.

Special Considerations for Fireplaces Framing dimensions should be about 3" smaller from side to side than desired finished dimension with stone when corners are used. Mantle should be installed before stone. Mantle should be built 2" deeper than desired finished depth due to thickness of the stone. Bottom of firebox should be framed in 2 ½" higher than hearth framing to allow for 2" hearthstones, lath and mortar. This allows the access doors on the bottom of the firebox to open properly. A lot of this depends on the fireplace unit. Depth of hearth should be framed at 15" to allow for 1 ½" stone face and some overlap of hearthstones. Try to design the width of the fireplace to accept full hearthstones in 9" or 18" increments, including overlap on sides of hearth. Metal face frame of firebox can be covered with stone. Apply lath with sheet metal screws. Don't cover any louvered areas of firebox. Brick fireplaces can be resurfaced with stone. No lath is needed unless brick is glazed or painted. Corners can be wrapped inside the fireplace opening. Hearthstones are colored to match the stone selected. Always follow fireplace manufacturer's installation instructions.

New Dry Stack Installation Instructions Dry Stack stone should be installed from the bottom up. If needed, a sleeper board can be tacked to the wall to support the first course of stone until it is set. Subsequent courses should be laid as tightly as possible pressing in and down. Acryl 60 Mortar adhesive is recommended.